In this city guide don't expect a rundown of the best must see attractions in Kampot because there are none. Kampot City in Cambodia isn't a city of skyscrapers, museums and glitzy art galleries. And yet the city with a population of less than 50,000 is a top destination. Believe it or not, it is. That's because the whole Kampot Province gives you the sense of great adventure. But in a more laidback ambient setting.
You can't imagine for one moment Kampot Province is boring. There are things to see and do, in fact. Nor does this small out of the way city lack facilities. The provincial city packs a punch:
You have to nosey around the city and uncover a lot of the hidden gems yourself. And if you ask us, that's part and parcel of enjoying Kampot, actually. Hire a bicycle and ride along the riverbank. You'll want to do this a few times, because it's very relaxing and therapeutic.
You can also stroll (or cycle) around the Old Kampot Town for the old French colonial architecture. Many of the buildings are now cafes, restaurants and shops. A few others represent public or government buildings. Make a day of finding out more about the city and its history. There are several eateries you can enjoy lunch. What Kampot does is to slow down the pace for you, if that's what you're looking for.
A little out of the city is a stretch of river that is ideal for kayaking and swimming, where the water is clean and clear. Ask the locals where this part of the river is if you are unsure. If you find yourself staying in any of the riverside dwellings, they'll hire out a kayak to you. That means endless hours of fun and peace on the river, the freedom to explore along the river out of town. What if you've never been on a river in a kayak before?
Now would be a good time as any to get lessons, before your holiday.
Many hotels have bicycles for hire. The urge is you hire one and cycle out into the countryside. It's your chance to explore life at a gentler pace, moving past rice fields and so much more. And then afterwards, return to town and freshen up. Shop the old market for key picnic essentials and head off again in the afternoon. And that, pretty much sums up your Kampot stay. As we said, it's far more laidback.
But there can be adventure too. Do you want to explore the wider province? Visit the city of Kep, you can do from Kampot. Be ready to jump on the back of a motorbike to get around, and two things:
Much of Cambodia, the road infrastructure is questionable. In and around Kampot the roads are reasonable, so no worries. If you prefer not to chance your luck on a motorbike the best alternative of course, is a guided tour. We hired a motorbike on our visit to Kampot, to get to Kep City from there. The short distance of 20km is nothing to stress over, it took us less than an hour to get. It took us longer actually, because we stopped along the way.
The local economy survived the Khmer Rouge years but only by a whisker and it has taken decades since to restore Kampot's once famous salt and pepper industries. Visiting both the salt and pepper farms opens your eyes to a small-scale industry that primarily is the main revenue generator for locals. The end product is much sought after all over the world, after being introduced to foreign markets by the French.
Your journey to a farm, it doesn't matter which one you visit because there are plenty of them, it is pleasant, the countryside is lush and green. Great for nature lovers and those wanting a peek into rural Cambodian life. It will amaze you to see how much work is involved in farming the land and processing the salt and pepper crops.
After your tour, you have the opportunity to buy both salt and pepper (there are different varieties of pepper), both making great gifts for friends and family back home. Both the aroma and flavor of the peppers are amazing, strong and distinct to Kampot. Making a purchase and supporting these people is obligatory, of course.
We took a tour of the Bokor Mountain National Park as a group which worked out to be cheap. But as we said earlier you can hire a motorbike yourself, or maybe you prefer to be driven around in comfort? A taxi or a 7-seater are viable options.
Strangely for Cambodia, the roads in the national park are in excellent condition. Long may that continue ― but if you do opt for two wheels, drive sensible as there are many tight corners. One attraction are the abandoned French buildings dating back to the 1920's. They're derelict, mostly and eerie having been forgotten about for so many years. And the mountain top seems to be perpetually surrounded in cloud mist, adding great effect to your visit it must be said.
On our visit the Thansur Sokha Hotel was being revived as a hotel and casino having been refurbished in recent years. From the French hill station there are stunning views out over the mountains. It is understandable why the French build the original hotel early last century, as a plush weekend retreat, and why someone would want to bring it back to life.
Elsewhere around the mountain top, there are other minor attractions scattered around: an old catholic church, various temples and statues, and the Popokvil Waterfall.
A great Kampot experience.
On the ascend to the cave temple you admire the natural rural beauty below. On entering the cave, you discover an ancient shrine dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. This 7th century structure (pre-Wat Angkor) is worth the climb alone, never mind the cave. If you want to explore the cave in more detail you must either have a paid guide with you or tip a few of the children hanging around, to show you. But don't explore without guidance, or alone: there are many narrow passages you must squeeze through. It's easy to get disorientated and lost in a cave.
One more reason for a paid guide is you will need a flashlight as this cave is dark once you step beyond the chamber.
The town of Kep is close by and it enjoyed a hive of activity decades ago, once, when Europeans flocked to it. That was, until Sihanoukville began to overshadow Kep and steal a lot of the limelight. Our guide will avoid the town in favor of Koh Rong Island instead.
Getting yourself onto the Island is a four-hour journey, mostly driven and finished off with a brief ferry ride. It's possible, without too much trouble, from US$25 per person.
Having enjoyed Kampot and found it to be what makes you weak at the knees, then Koh Rong Island will have much the same impact on you. It's a backpacker's haven ― what Kampot once was (and still is, in many circles). The Island is featured in our city guide purely because for many visiting Kampot, Koh Rong is an extension of the Kampot experience. That's how it will feel to you at least: Koh Rong goes hand in hand with Kampot.
The Island has it all, everything what you dreamt off for a paradise escape:
On being dropped off at the pier in Koh Touch village, quickly find a place to stay if you've not already done so. The village is saturated with dormitories, hostels and guesthouses. Attractive for low budget travelers ― gap year students and backpackers which is just as well really because:
As we said, Kampot and Koh Rong go hand in hand. Both are ideal for those backpacking or even on a road trip. Certainly, the Island isn't geared towards families, and dare we say it, seniors.
Koh Rong has a sister Island thankfully. Koh Rong Sanloem is a much better fit for families and those over 30. Whichever category you fall under ― under 30 or over ― there is a Koh Rong for you. For more details about the Koh Rong Islands, read our other guide (link below).
There are no issues getting to and from Kampot, from one location and moving onto your next. For the best experience of comfort and affordability, take a minibus. Doing so, you are sharing the costs with those you are traveling with and the journey is about three hours from Phnom Penh. Sihanoukville is even closer still at just over an hour by road.
The general consensus is that a lot of tourists favor the minibus as it's cheaper and just as convenient for them to share. If you want more privacy, hire a taxi instead.
Kampot City is an interesting holiday destination for several reasons. The old colonial French part of Kampot is in decline or so it appears on the surface. In places you see renovation: a patch work of repairs, ad hoc. And then there is a strong Chinese influence layered over the French period. The province makes for a wonderful one-or-two-day trip from the capital or a stayover before moving onto another destination.
Accommodation in the city itself and outside range from being adequate to the feeling of luxury depending on your budget. The bamboo-built lodgings to the north of the city, on the river bank, are functional and perfect. Clean and spacious with stunning views over the river. Excellently positioned to enjoy sunrises and sunsets:
A small city that mustn't be ignored or brushed aside, as unimportant. The wilderness of the national park provides many opportunities for thrilling panoramic views far, far out on a clear day. The history of Kampot is as interesting as anywhere else in Cambodia too.
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