What intrigued us about Cambodia first were stories of an ancient people. An empire and their everlasting immortalized legacy. What a beautiful story, of power, struggle and love, if it were true.
Can you imagine how amazed we were to find it was real? There was an ancient centuries old Khmer empire. Going direct to Siem Reap as a first port of call proves it all to be true. Yes, there are many summer destinations to discover in Cambodia. Yet for most travelers, Siem Reap is their first ultimate holiday destination.
Before you can appreciate Cambodia, you must know a little about the Khmer people.
They were an empire that in the end ruled over southeastern Asia for hundreds and hundreds of years. Today almost all Cambodians' trace their ancestry to the Khmer of old. With such a rich heritage there must be an enormous pride in how they feel.
Not only in celebration of that heritage but to share it with so many others.
The Cambodian festival year has always been about the celebrating of religion and cultural beliefs. Heavily influenced by Buddhist and Hindu traditions, Cambodia's festivals are treated as a public holiday by many. Four of the very most important festivals we uncover in this travel guide:
Almost all Cambodians spring clean their home and share gifts with neighbors. They'll also visit their nearest temple. Two locations the most popular, are Wat Phnom in the capital and Angkor Wat at Siem Reap. We found Wat Phnom to be bursting at the seams during their New Year, and patience is a must with this festival.
Crowded streets, as are the cafes and restaurants. Tourists arriving from neighboring Thailand and Laos, even India, the population bulges. As a tourist to Cambodia, you are immediately made to feel welcome. That's great because this friendship enhances an attachment you've developed for the locals.
The festival is family oriented; did we say? Cambodian school kids are out of school and let loose to have fun during the festival. Kids love to play, so let them have their fun.
Much later in the summer, usually from September time, you hear of the festival for Ancestors' Day. The festival encourages people to visit as many pagodas as possible, with offerings. Gifting ancestors is common in many cultures, and it's endearing to see it for yourself. By lighting candles, the dead can find their way to those offerings.
Celebrations last a whole 15 days with the last 3 a statutory holiday. Including government officials, so everything closes towards the last 3, or 4 days.
Cambodia's Royal Plowing Ceremony is similar in nature to the one held in Thailand. The traditional celebration begins close to the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh. The festival brings farming communities together for the sowing of the rice crops. The highlight is seeing the Royal family. The King or another Royal member will walk two oxen around a field several times plowing the earth.
Once finished the ploughing, the oxen eat. The farmers believe what the cattle eat the most, can predict the outcome of the growing season. It's an interesting event and one you can experience in May.
There is one last festival, the Meak Bochea festival. This festival commemorates the Buddha's sermon at Rajagaha Valuwan Vihara. In the region of 1,200 monks attend a sermon symbolizing when religion took a giant leap forward. That's said to be when the Buddha asked his audience to spread the principles of Buddhism.
Early in the year, January or February for this festival. It's the first religious celebration of the calendar year.
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The most ideal dish in our opinion during a festival is this Khmer beef salad. It's burst at the seams with flavors of seared marinated meat on one hand and the other crunchy vegetables of:
If you are a fan of spicy Asian cuisine then this is a must try for you when in Cambodia.
Arriving in Cambodia you instantly feel the pulse of the people hurrying about with their lives. Thankfully the tragedy of war hasn't stopped the Cambodian people from thriving. Life goes on as the saying goes. Cities have bustling cafes and restaurants; the bars and nightclubs are buzzing with dance and happiness. There is excitement in renewed hope.
As travelers we jump at every chance to experience the rich history and culture of a country and its people: hospitality and cuisine are paramount to the enjoyment of travel. It is our thoughts it's about time you got yourself to Cambodia ― if not for the first time, then to return to:
Not as developed as their neighbors perhaps, and that's not such a bad thing. Not really because what scarcity there is in modern infrastructure and convenience is made up instead with super friendly people. Holiday in Cambodia and see for yourself the country has far more on offer other than being a backpacker's backyard.
The remarkable history of the city is in full view for all to enjoy and little of it is blotted out by unsightly skyscrapers. For us that is one of the charms of Cambodia ― ancient architecture continues to blend well with French colonial opulence and tree-lined boulevards.
If you wish for a cruise on the Mekong River then arrive mid-summer. The rivers begin to rise again towards the end of May. Any cruise will be relaxing for you but more importantly you'll have the best seat in the house for sightseeing. On your trip you'll be entertained with live performances, wined and dined on authentic Cambodian cuisine.
If the river cruise wetted your appetite for adventure then take a ferry to Siem Reap instead of the road. The ferry is a little longer in duration but the scenery is far more spectacular. Catch the ferry ― the months of July to November ― at 7am sharp from Phnom Penh Port on Sisowath Quay, and return the next day or the day after.
Along the Phnom Penh riverside promenade, you can go for a quiet stroll along the Mekong for the parks and gardens. From there you continue your relaxation with a meal in one of the restaurants or food courts followed by a drink in a bar. Settle down and look forward to a sunset paint the Phnom Penh skyline in hues of orange.
Close to Angkor Wat, Siem Reap has become one of the world's most traveled destinations. Over one million people come each year to experience what 1000 years of history looks and feels like. And now you've come too, drawn to it because of your cultural curiosity. The complex is built near to the banks of the Tonle Sap Lake which formed the backbone to the ancient Khmer economic empire.
The Old Market, along with the old French Quarter are tourist traps. Part of your sightseeing bucket list you can admire the French colonial facades on most of the buildings and notice too there is a little Chinese influence poking out at you. Truly beautiful elegance and all adding to the sparkle of Cambodia's Khmer. For further information about the temples and their history in Cambodia, see this guide (link below):
Having enjoyed Phnom Penh and exercising your cultural inquisitiveness over Siem Reap and the Angkor ruins, your thoughts turn to Battambang. Musuems and ancient temples and colonial era picturesque buildings. You experienced the best of Phnom Penh by cruising and why not kayak on the Sangker River?
Following the river downstream takes you to traditional villages and rice fields. See the locals farm their land in the background of lush dense rainforest jungle. The summers are hot in Cambodia but there is a breeze blowing down from the forest, bringing much relief to you.
In a beautiful setting the Well of Shadows pagoda holds deep sorrow. The site is in remembrance of those lives lost at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. Not for those faint of heart because behind a glass box are human remains and skulls of the dead ― quite visibly you can see bullet holes in those skulls. Tip one of the local students and they'll happily take you there.
Each evening at dusk from a mountain cave millions of bats fly out for what can only be described as an astonishing sight. There is no need to ask for directions. Simply follow the crowds to the bottom of Phnom Sampeou before the sun goes down.
Waiting for you are stunning beaches, tropical Islands and mangrove forests belonging to the Ream National Park. Make the best use of the white sandy beaches and turquoise waters throughout the day, and after gorging yourself on the insane sunsets. Finish the relaxation off with a meal and a drink in one of the grass huts styled restaurants and bars.
There are a number of beaches ― some are private ― that line the western peninsular, with several small Islands in your peripheral vision. Those beaches are:
To reach the best diving and snorkeling spots you negotiate between the Islands in a water taxi. There is always the opportunity, of course, for fishing. Serendipity beach runs off the end of Ochheuteal beach but both have beach huts serving food and drink from early morning to late evening. All mentioned beaches have a party atmosphere to some degree or another as night falls.
Otres beach is the quietest of all the beaches. Come here when you tire of the crowds and noise and wish to recharge ― the long stretches afford you the solitude you seek. Victory beach lies to the northern most point of Sihanoukville and is usually associated with budget travelers. A favorite among backpackers but best known and loved for the most impressive sunsets over the Gulf of Thailand.
Earlier we mentioned Cambodia isn't fully developed as their neighbors and the city of Sihanoukville is a case in point. There is no established public transport system in place. The road networks are questionable too. But you can and do move around the city without trouble via tuk-tuks and taxis. Generally safe but be wary because the city is saturated with motorbikes and many may not have a license or insurance.
Our thoughts are you're left with a sense of lawlessness on the roads. Stick to three and four wheels. When booking a tour try to do so through your hotel or guesthouse for the best service experience and price.
Kampot has a laidback feel about it. It's slow, with lush greenery surrounding you no matter where you go there. Any feeling of what weighs on you has since been lifted. For us it's the French colonial past that catapults your senses to new highs. In Kampot, life revolves around the Praek Tuek Chhu River.
The riverside promenade indicates an amazing view over onto the picturesque Bokor National Park in the background. Dare you explore the town beyond your promenade front hotel? Fall in love with the French villas and boulevards. The streets show off charming French architecture beautifully. Walk slowly around this old town for the best experience. If your hotel is in one of the out-of-town resorts to the north, hire a tuk-tuk to get into town.
The Praek Tuek Chhu river, you can safely swim in by the way. A little out of town and the water is clean and clear. We wouldn't dare suggest you go swimming in the Mekong but you can here and be most pleased for it too.
There are a few shops and markets for perusal but little else, but did you honestly expect anything more? The Old Governor’s Mansion has been lovingly restored to its former glory and you really appreciate that, actually. This town is all about its French past. The Lotus Pond behind the mansion is often frequented by the locals most evenings, for their sunset stroll. In the peak of the summer months ― June to September ― it's unfortunate the pond may dry out.
Outdoor activities for the adventurous include (but not limited to):
Exploring the Bokor National Park there are guided tours to caves and temples and waterfalls. You must book in advance and safety gear is provided for you.
When you travel around Cambodia what happens is you fall in love with their provincial towns. It's easily done and most travelers find it unavoidable, and it's because of the charm of the local people and their history. Kampong Cham is no different in that respect. What we liked about the town is you could simply go off on a bicycle ride for the pleasure of the lush green countryside surrounding you and there is little in the way of traffic to disturb this tranquility you've found.
Enjoy the quietness of the main street and wander through the many side streets ― snacking on authentic Cambodian street food as you go ― to gander at sights of the Mekong River glimmering in the sunlight. Quaint yes, but very untroubling for your soul and wellbeing too.
For a taste of the real Cambodia then find your way to the towns market. There are no hard sells with stalls hawking souvenirs to tourists: it's the real deal here, with the charm of the town felt as you get stuck in. When it comes to the evenings you are glad of the river and its heritage. Because we can't recommend highly enough for you to book a sunset boat tour.
You set off late in the afternoon and the tour takes you onto the river proper. Listen intently to the stories told. Tales of the river and the town and history of Kampong Cham come thick and fast as the Mekong's beauty unfolds before your eyes. The experience dazzles you, but it gets better.
The tour takes you to the Island of Koh Paen for a brief stop. Visit the local villages and witness a truer side of Cambodian life up close and personal. As we said, this is the real Cambodia. Back on board the boat heading back to Kampong Cham, you have the stunning settings of the sunset on the river. Hues of blue turn to orange glinting on the surface as you sip on a cold beverage. Unforgettable.
If you are stuck for ideas where to go after Kampot, we suggest you head for Kep, on the Vietnamese border. It's perfect if you were planning on crossing into Vietnam anyway. Plenty of relaxation for you. There are one or two beaches and a crab market. An Island to pique your curiosity. The grilled seafood is fresh and full of flavor sold at the market, find a quiet table and feast yourself.
A 20-minute boat ride from the mainland takes you to Koh Tonsay Island. A relatively small Island with not a lot to do really but you do enjoy the relaxation of swaying in a hammock. Take a good book with you and enjoy the quietness in between sunbathing and swimming. A boat leaves twice a day to go to the Island: early morning and early afternoon.
The one attraction that draws in the crowds on this Biosphere Reserve is the extraordinary Kompong Khleang floating village. Whole communities live their lives out on this lake:
There are even entire villages high up on stilts along the bank of the lake, keeping residents safe in the wet season. During the dry season there are long ladders leading down to the lower levels beneath. Unimaginable really and you must see for yourself to believe it. It's remarkable to learn how people can adapt to live with their nature.
The Tonle Sap Lake is one of the largest bodies of fresh water in Asia and the most biodiverse wetlands in the world. Often referred to as "Cambodia's Amazon", the flooded forests are in decline. We are led to believe due to illegal logging and forest fire. Other than the numerous villages and communities there is the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary. You can easily reach the lake either from Siem Reap or the capital, Phnom Penh. We recommend you visit for an experience out of the ordinary.
Certainly, the local villagers would benefit greatly from your tourist dollars.
Far out into the wilderness you find Banlung, and in one of the most remote parts of Cambodia. It's not for everyone: the attraction appeals more to those who jump at the chance of adventure or being wrapped up in nature. And that's because of Virachey National Park being on your doorstep. If you:
Then you will enjoy Banlung. Returning to civilized life, you will have one more lifelong memorable experience to cherish. The entire Ratanakiri northeastern province has some of the most incredible wildlife imaginable. This wildlife is incredible and what adds to this experience are the lakes and waterfalls. Over 3,325 square kilometers, Virachey is one of only two national parks in Cambodia with ASEAN Heritage status.
For nature lovers and trekking enthusiasts ― backpackers too ― without a doubt this is paradise for them. To get to Banlung from Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, we strongly urge you to take the night bus and sleep through those many hours. Arrive in the morning refreshed and begin exploring with vigor.
Being so remote you accept that there will be limited accommodation and limited amenities in and around Banlung. And, actually, you don't care. You're just thankful for the authentic Khmer restaurants and a roof over your head because the only reason you've traveled so far is inside that national park. The "big ticket" item is Yeak Laom Lake. Horse around with the locals and go diving into this volcanic lake's crystal-clear waters. Climb trees and swing off the overhanging branches to the rapture of squeals and laughter.
The local children don't see many visitors and those that they do get to socialize with, for them it's a really big deal. Scattered on the outskirts of the town are the waterfalls. Move around the town on a motorbike for the best chance to see as many as possible. There are quite a few waterfalls we were told about and the best for having the pool to swim and cool off in are Ka Tieng Waterfall and Cha Ong Waterfall.
The national park you are anticipating grabbing the sight of some of the wildlife such as:
The deeper you trek into the jungle and the more remote you are, increases the odds of you catching a glimpse of a prized animal. There are rare snakes, tarantulas and bird species of course. Just have your camera ready because each shot is a once in a lifetime opportunity, never again to be repeated.
A little like Kampong Cham and Kampong Thom, the town of Kratie is another one of those "off the beaten track" places few are interested in going to. Mostly, tourists passing through or staying overnight, are doing so on their way to or from Phnom Penh and Laos.
The only real attraction of Kratie for many is the endangered Irrawaddy River Dolphins on the Mekong. To find where to go just follow a local guide to Kampi Village. Much like Kampong Cham, you do find delight in strolling through the side streets for a piece of real Cambodian life.
The riverfront is the most picturesque. Take a picnic with you and pick out your spot by the bank, out of town, for a most enjoyable few hour alone. If there are any boat tours going onto the Mekong for the sunset, then go. The evenings are colored beautifully before darkness sets in.
Every country and every destination have its "big ticket" item that fires the imagination of millions. Cambodia's temple ruins are the blockbusters people want to experience. To not only come and see, but to touch and feel. It's history that simply refuses to be forgotten. The temples have fallen but the legend of the Khmer empire lives on, centuries later.
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Hello, we are George and Elle Mae Melyre.
Over the years, amidst work and family life, we have traveled extensively throughout Asia. Any chance to briefly escape or properly holiday in our beloved Asian destinations is eagerly seized, motivated by the enduring dream of leaving behind the UK's dreary cold for tropical climes.