For almost one thousand kilometers, all along the coast of the Arabian Sea there are bodies of water known for the Alleppey backwaters. It is said to be the Venice of India, and that claim is instantly believable. A network of lakes, canals and lagoons surrounded by a jungle of palm trees on all sides, as far as the eye can see.
Sure, there are many lakes in India so what separates this one for those others? Kerala's backwaters are one huge wetland. That's what it feels like, at least. The only way you can enjoy the backwaters and get the best possible experience from this tropical paradise is by taking a cruise on the waters.
But which cruise, because there are many types of houseboats.
There are those for day (or evening) trips and then there are those houseboats for overnight cruises. They're more akin to a luxurious hotel actually, because onboard each boat:
It's surprising to learn just how luxurious a stay you can have on some of the houseboats. At most there are only 3 cabins on any one boat, so every moment on board you're made to feel special.
The houseboats are cozy, each crafted and furnished to very high standards. A cruise is one you will remember for many years. Our suggestion, for the best experience is for you to cruise the backwaters overnight. Because the sunset is long and slow over the horizon.
We sat on the upper deck of our boat for hours after the evening meal, catching sights of the other houseboats. Their lights and noise rising and falling as we passed, the sunset in no hurry to end.
Service by the way was exceptional. That pretty much is the norm when holidaying in India, the hospitality is 5-star treatment. Once introduced to key staff members and shown to your cabin the boat sets off on the cruise late afternoon. Feelings of tranquility surfaced for us, and the other guests, when given a cold beer.
The cold beer is a welcoming respite from the warm air. Despite a breeze blowing over the lake, it was still quite humid.
At some point in the evening, an authentic Indian meal presented itself. The menu is varied, and three course. If you aren't fond of meat there are vegetarian dishes. Every dish is prepared fresh onboard. Afterwards, back on dry land you have the feeling it was much more than a cruise. A quintessential Kerala cruise is one of relaxation.
If instead, do you opt for a day cruise? Then as a rule of thumb, a cruise on the water may only run to a few hours in length. Be wary of what you are paying for, because not all is what it seems:
We never faced any problems, but we paid for one of the more expensive night cruises. Was it worth spending more? Yes, because our houseboat had fewer, but more spacious cabins. Including the two of us, there were only 7 other couples on board as paying passengers.
Our second day of the cruise we saw one boat with tourists packed in like sardines. We could only feel sorry for them, so sad.
All along the banks of the lake and canal are houses, and even small villages. When the boat you're on makes way for other boats, it moves closer to the canal sides affording you sights close up of the villagers. It may be actually; your guides go ashore with you, to take you on a trek inland:
What you soon realize is a standard morning, afternoon or evening cruise isn't enough. With up to 1000km of waterways, a full 2D1N cruise makes more sense.
The backwaters radiate with great beauty. As a top tourist destination, it's understandable why the waters are busy around the clock. By busy, we mean the waterways are chock full of houseboats of varying sizes. That's even more in evidence in the narrower canals and lagoons, the boats begin to queue up to pass.
The plentiful supply of fresh water provides irrigation for the coconut grooves, spice plantations and rubber farms. Fishing and tourism also contribute to the local economy. With such a vast network of waterways it is easy to lose your bearings, therefore we will highlight some of the best spots you can tour to for the best experience:
Alleppey is the most famous and recognized backwater but as you can tell there are others. They're as good as Alleppey in our opinion. Varkala Town is where the ocean meets the backwaters, and one popular beach is Kappil Beach. Year round visited by many foreign tourists; the beach is the main attraction.
And yet they're on the whole unaware of the presence of the backwaters.
There is no sight of any houseboat. It's due to the waterways being narrower, but enjoyable all the same. Choose canoeing on the waters instead, over a cruise. Going by taxi, the 7km out of town to the beach shouldn't cost you no more than US$3. Cochin is more famous for its fort and colonial town; those are the top attractions we found.
The backwaters are a two-hour taxi journey from the airport. You can buy tickets from the airport or use an Uber taxi if you prefer. The cost should be no more than US$45. There is the state managed bus service of course which is a lot cheaper but we've no experience with them.
Picturesque palm-lined canals and river waterways flow inland from the coastline at Cochin. This all creates a stunning natural cruise experience you may have dreamt of. The main entry point to the backwaters is through Alleppey, at the heart of the great Vembanad Lake. Your cruise journey will feel as if you're in another world.
A part of the Vembanad Lake with a cluster of small Islands, there are villages located on the Islands. A 14-acre bird sanctuary exists in the area making it a dream come true for birdwatchers and nature lovers. Birds on the reserve are wide and varied but you can expect to spot:
There are many migratory species throughout the year. From coconut groves there are amazing panoramic views out over the lake. Some cruises only last a few hours, usually the cheap tours you'd pay US$8 per person. But were you to pay more, say twice more, your cruise will last longer. You have a chance, fingers crossed of visiting one of the villages.
The overnight cruise we were on did pull into dry land the next morning for us. Unfortunately, not here on the Kumarakom backwater.
You can come and explore the Island on foot for the most perfect weekend. Far less crowded than Alleppey, the Island is ideal for what life in Kerala is like for local people. Villages are very quiet. Completely peaceful in fact, there are no vehicles to speak of.
For so long, we felt we deserved this solitude among the coconut trees and bird song.
Houseboats don't sail on the Islands canals for their size so your cruise will be by a canoe. No less an adventure though. Even if you've never canoed or kayaked before, you're encouraged to try. And isn't that what you want on a holiday? Many new experiences.
A small Island near to the center of Vembanad Lake. The Island is home to several hundred families and a small holiday resort. On the face of it, the Island has the best location to capture the sunset over the lake, our guide said, so many times.
Kerala is one of the most popular destinations in India. That's evident with the huge numbers of domestic and foreign tourists. An all-year-round attraction. A good time for you to travel is in November, or December until late February.
Having been to Kerala before on another occasion, we took a second trip before Christmas. We moved onto Goa afterwards on that trip, but recalling the weather it was still warm for so late in the year.
From February onwards, it gets far warmer. Somewhat unpleasant for sure, due to high humidity.
Related Reading: The Best Beaches for your India Winter Holiday
Kerala is world famous for an Ayurvedic therapeutic experience. It would be a crying shame to travel to India and not enjoy Ayurvedic natural healing. It's a tradition practiced throughout Kerala for thousands of years. The Kerala climate and fresh air of the backwaters are what makes the difference.
The pores in your skin are more suspectable to opening, due to the higher level of moisture. This enables your skin to absorb the herbal oils and therapy with ease. The therapeutic massage afterwards only enhances the enjoyment, you have fewer tense muscles.
Of all the amazing wonders in India, the historic buildings and modern mosques. The festivals and wildlife, Kerala stands out from the crowd. As Agra has its Taj Ma Hal, Kerala has the Alleppey backwaters, a way of life that has stood unmoved for centuries. The only comparable experience to a Kerala cruise is that of one on the Mekong River.
From Cambodia's Siem Reap to Vietnam's Ho Chi Minh City, both are incredible journeys:
Both are a journey on waters that promise lifelong memories to treasure. What you will take home more than anything else is the authenticity of the cruise. It's your Indian dream, or at least one part of it because you'll come back to India. The hospitality of the local people who serve you, and those who you meet in passing. And the food is incredible.
You will be unable to resist the fresh fish dishes, far sweeter than typical curry Indian dishes.
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Hello, we are George and Elle Mae Melyre.
Over the years, amidst work and family life, we have traveled extensively throughout Asia. Any chance to briefly escape or properly holiday in our beloved Asian destinations is eagerly seized, motivated by the enduring dream of leaving behind the UK's dreary cold for tropical climes.