If you desire a holiday to the Maldives but for some unfortunate mishap it falls through, then consider Indonesia's Raja Ampat Islands instead. Like for like, both are very similar in regards to the clear, high quality turquoise blue waters, warm and tropical, beautiful beneath the waves.
There is a lot to desire in the Maldives, but much so too in and around the Raja Ampat archipelago. The one thing that may be missing are the ultra-luxury resorts that the Maldives have become known for, but by Indonesian standards, holidaying in the Raja Ampat Islands is expensive. Which makes the Islands rather exclusive, and therefore less crowded compared to Indonesia's other Islands.
To get to the Islands you must have the patience of a saint, because it isn't so simple. If you are already holidaying in Indonesia prior to heading to Raja Ampat, then fly domestic from Bali to Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport, Makassar on South Sulawesi. That's the first step. Otherwise fly on an international flight direct to Sorong's Domine Eduard Osok Airport, bypassing Makassar altogether.
Step two now involves you getting onto a connecting flight from there (Makassar), to Sorong on West Papua. Thankfully you can get flights to Sorong from other airports other than just Makassar:
As Raja Ampat has become more popular, Asian airlines have created new flights in response to demand. You can even get direct flights from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to Sorong. But there are still no direct flights to Sorong from Bali or Denpasar. Once you step out of the airport, take a taxi to Pelabuhan Rakyat Harbor. The journey shouldn't take more than 30 minutes and cost no more than US$10.
Step three, you must arrive in Waisai. Waisai is a town to the south of the Waigeo Island, and capital of the larger Raja Ampat Regency, or archipelago. You can get to the town either by ferry, or by flying.
There is a ferry, twice daily to and from Sorong to Waisai. There is the morning ferry and another one in the afternoon. If your flight into Sorong has caused you to miss either one, then you'll need to stay the night in a hotel.
The boat trip to Waisai Town is about 2 hours with the faster (recommended) express service. You cannot purchase the tickets in advance, only show up at the harbor and buy them from the main harbor office: if in doubt, just ask someone. The boat sets sail at 09:00 and 14:00 hours, normally but do anticipate delays. You can expect to pay between US$10 and US$19 for a ticket, one way.
On arriving at the port in the south of Waigeo Island, you can hire a taxi to take you to your hotel or homestay accommodation. If your accommodation, or holiday resort, is on another Island then you'll need to arrange a boat trip to that Island, there is no public ferry in the Raja Ampat archipelago. Could it be that your resort can arrange transport for you? Enquire at the time of booking.
If you prefer to fly to Waigeo, you can do so from Sorong: the short domestic flight takes you to Marinda Airport, 10km distant from Waisai Town. From there, hire a taxi to take you into town or to where your homestay accommodation is.
Pro Tip: It is important to understand, when you want (the date) to return from your Raja Ampat holiday, to be in Sorong the day before your flight leaves for the return leg. So, don't wait until the last minute to head back to Sorong, because you'll miss your flight if the ferry service is ever disrupted. As we said, you've got to anticipate for delays, as they occur regularly.
Answering the question, in short, Raja Ampat is most definitely worth it. We say that, because the Maldives is even more expensive. If you can afford to holiday in the Maldives but ultimately lost out on the chance, then holidaying on the Raja Ampat Islands is the next best thing. Both are very similar in too many ways, to rule out Raja Ampat altogether.
If you can't imagine what could bring you so far out of the mainstream tourist path, continue to read on. There are numerous reasons why you'd want a holiday break on the Islands. Most of those reasons ― if not all of them ― revolve around nature and the natural world.
The Maldives offers some of the best, most gorgeous waters for diving. Just for the pure pleasure we mean, mention nothing of the coral reef and marine life. Well, Raja Ampat has that. This Island archipelago is world renowned for the most stunning, pleasurable diving experiences.
It's best to come to Raja Ampat having already gained diving experience previously, because you do want to spend most of your time in the water. You'll lose valuable time on Raja Ampat if you must learn to dive first, although there are diving centers galore nonetheless. If you can learn to dive, back home, before planning your trip then 100% do so, and be ready to go diving right away.
What makes diving in Raja Ampat so special? It's so rare, that's what. Sure, there are great diving experiences in Thailand, and most definitely, in Malaysia but none as rare as an experience in Raja Ampat. And that's because of the "exclusivity" you sense, of being there. That exact same sense of wonderment when holidaying in the Maldives. It's true: it's the exclusivity, or to put it another way, so few people holiday in such locations.
The cost is a factor yes, but the distance and inconvenience also put a lot of people off.
In any event, for the length of your stay, all that is instantly forgotten about. As soon as you've unpacked you are eager to meet up with your tour guide and go out into the water to experience the marine world. If you can count the number of days on one hand for your paradise holiday, don't waste time because:
Have a tour already booked in advance, a day trip out to dive in among the clownfish, mantra rays and turtles. And dozens more fish species are below the waves waiting to be discovered. It can't be put into words the feelings, the emotions of snorkeling or diving in the Raja Ampat Islands. You truly feel like a different person afterwards, the experience can be so profound upon you.
After a day of full fun packed action, you are lounging, enjoying the sunset sink below the horizon with a cold drink. It's still warm and the breeze blowing in is cooling. With smiles and laughter, you think about grabbing what sleep you can get before dawn the next day, wakes you.
Raja Ampat is world renowned for its diving spots but another water sport many seek, coming to Raja Ampat is for surfing. Being so remote and out in the wide open pacific, the unruly currents create the greatest waves. It is said the best surfing breaks are found on Ayau and Asia Islands, 50km to the north of Waigeo Island. Asia Island is further north, 80km distant, smaller and completely desolate of human settlement.
There are no homestays so far north, only small villages and even those are few and far between. If you love surfing then you'll find a way to get to Raja Ampat, that's for sure. You'll just have to bed down with very friendly people who are so welcoming of new faces. But you'd do anything for your much-loved sport, of course.
There is other reasons why Indonesia is a top honeymoon destination, which is pleasing to know if you are soon to be wedded but Raja Ampat should be a consideration too. The travel guide we've linked to has many beautiful, once only experiences for couples on honeymoon. Indonesia is just perfect for celebrating a wedding, the joining of two people and for romance.
What makes Raja Ampat so much more special in cases of newlyweds is the Islands are so remote. Being far flung in another corner of Indonesia, most international tourists seldom will contemplate the location. Such remoteness promises far more space and privacy for couples. No matter where in the archipelago you are holidaying, it will feel as if you are alone.
There are plenty of lagoons, bays and coves. Small sandy banks to rest up on, lounge in the sun for hours on end. And this is when you realize how exclusive Raja Ampat is, just like how the Maldives are exclusive: because there are so few others around. If you are looking for a honeymoon paradise and only care about peacefulness and being with nature then put Raja Ampat at the top of your list.
You will not want to be marooned on one Island and at some point, another Island in the distance will call for you. The only way to get around the Islands, between each one, is by boat. Even if you want to simply go to the other side of an Island, it requires a boat. Most of the Islands don't have roads, because the built-up areas are all on the shoreline.
The Islands are hilly, mountainous and carpeted in dense forest. It's those features that are beautiful and, in many ways, actually define for us what a paradise Island should be. All the homestays and resorts are dotted all along the shoreline, some hidden and obscured by nature. Peacefulness and serenity reign supreme on the Raja Ampat Islands.
A lot of the homestays have their own small boat. Don't go immediately thinking they own a high-powered speedboat, because they don't. They own a boat with a low powered 50 horsepower engine and single propeller. That's it. Hiring the boat to take you somewhere, anyway, isn't cheap and starting prices are typically US$100 for a one-way trip.
Hiring a boat for several hours, say a whole morning, can run into hundreds of dollars. But usually, prices are negatable. You want to be chauffeured around by speedboat? Book into one of the big resorts, or base yourself in a large village.
The most popular of all the inhabited Islands of the Raja Ampat archipelago is Kri Island. It's the Island with the most opportunities for beach lounging, having the largest beaches. The best homestays and resorts can be found on the Island too, with their spa and wellness treatments. If you ever dreamed about the luxuries found in the Maldives, then book your holiday stay on Kri Island ― obviously, book well in advance so not to be bitterly disappointed.
All the resorts are in high demand, especially during the months of December and January, February too, for Valentines. Failing to plan ahead, and book a bungalow will result in missing out. You could frown and squeal about it not being "the Maldives" but like for like, there is very little difference to be honest. The are those same:
Very little is different, and nothing is ever second best, for you and your holiday pleasure.
The best time is between October and April, the following year. That is superb because it's ideal for Christmas and New Year winter breaks. It's also at this time of the year you have more chance of swimming, snorkeling and diving with the Mantra Rays. It's an amazing experience, they're so large but their elegance is beguiling of them. And yet you feel completely at ease with them.
Most of the expense for the homestays are getting goods, fuel and resources to the remote Islands, from mainland Indonesia. Their costs are passed onto you, which is a) understandable and b) unavoidable. In our opinion, and it's our recommendation actually, there is greater value for money with a tour package and its itinerary. Because a homestay can charge what they want for their boat, most people pay ― grudgingly or otherwise.
With a tour operator, your costs are fixed, and this helps you budget for your Raja Ampat experience. Are you still asking yourself if it is worth it? It is. Because two words you'll constantly hear yourself say are "Oh Wow!!". You are going to Raja Ampat to be completely and utterly amazed, believe it or not. In addition, your tourist dollars are helping to support a greater effort by those living in the Raja Ampat Islands to sustainably develop their eco-tourism.
So not only are you returning home after an incredible one-off holiday experience, but you are also ensuring the future of these remote Islands.
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